For the first time in over 10 years, the Sahadi family finally got to go to Lebanon (part one featuring the food is here). Read on for Caitlin Whelan's trip report. Caitlin is part of the fifth-generation operating the family-owned business, and co-owner of both Sahadi Market 57 and Sahadi Spirits.
In the midst of family celebrations and back to back business meetings, we somehow managed to schedule 6 winery tours. Visiting winery after winery was fascinating, especially as our trip coincided with the annual harvest. This was unexpected as the harvest of the grapes usually happens in early fall, but because of the hot weather this year, we were right on time. We saw the grapes being picked, sorted, pressed, and fermented, which was such an incredible opportunity. We went behind the scenes to see their craft firsthand. I cannot wait to go back and see even more of Lebanon’s beautiful wineries! Here are a few of the standouts.
Mersel/Heya: Organic, Natural, Vegan, Sustainable
Heya Nour – We've been waiting for this one! We tasted this wine in the mountains of Dimane, while eating a special kibbeh that is only made in North Lebanon, sitting on crates during the harvest. Fruity & fresh with all grapes hand-harvested. Unfined and unfiltered.
Mersel Leb Nat (Pet Nat) Red – Think Lebanese Lambrusco! Dry with notes of cranberry and strawberry, the name of this Pétillant Naturel "Mersel" comes from the Maksar Mersel region, which is the highest viticulture region in Lebanon. Their wines are made simply and naturally with very little or no sulfites, unfiltered and unfined using organic farming methods, resulting in a true expression of terroir.
Domaine des Tourelle: First commercial winery in Lebanon!
10 Year Aged Arak Brun – The world-famous arak Brun….but even better. Now aged 10 years for an extremely smooth experience. This spirit’s grape alcohol originates from very old Obeidi vines grown in terraces, a native grape to Lebanon. The ancestral production recipe consists of a triple distillation in artisanal copper alembics before undergoing an extraordinary 10-year aging journey in old Lebanese clay jars.
Domaine des Tourelles Merweh & Obiedi – This Sahadi family favorite is made from hand picked Merweh and Obeidi, two indigenous grape varietals that likely trace their lineage back to the Phoenicians. By blending them, Domaine des Tourelles has created a generous and mineral white wine that offers a sensorial voyage to Lebanon. A brilliant golden color, mineral and savory on the palate, the wine shows notes of dried figs and fresh almonds on the finish.
Domaine des Tourelles Cinsault Vieilles Vignes – A great wine for the Thanksgiving table! Made of 100% Cinsault, it is the only wine from Lebanon featured in the book 101 Wines to Try Before You Die by Margaret Rand. Light body. Very strawberry, cherry, red fruit forward. Fresh, complex, juicy, silky, smooth, aged in old French oak barrels.
Chateau Ksara: The oldest winery in Lebanon! Founded by Jesuit Priests in 1857.
Ksara Eau de Vie de Vin – From Lebanon's oldest winery, this eau-de-vie de vin is a brandy distilled following the traditional Cognac method, blending six different vintages and matured for an average of nine years in new oak barrels from Limousin. Production is limited to only 2,000 bottles per year.
Ksara Cuvee de Printemps – Another great Thanksgiving wine, super juicy and vibrant. This fun wine pairs excellently with pizza! A Beaujolais style blend of Gamay and Tempranillo made with semi carbonic maceration keeping the juice light and vibrant. A young red meant to be enjoyed within a few years of bottling.
Chateau Kefraya: We got to taste the wine DIRECTLY from the French oak barrels!
Kefraya White 2023 – Chateau Kefraya's flagship wine, made with 50% Chardonnay, 50% Vermentino. With a subtle touch of oak, it reveals fine oriental aromas of jasmine and green tea, while offering a rich palate of tropical and citrus fruits. Great with white meat and shellfish.
Massaya: We watched them hand-sort the grapes on the tables!
Massaya Terrasses de Baalbeck – Named after the famous Baalbeck ruins in Lebanon (ancient ruins in honor of Bacchus, which we visited in August!), this wine is a must try. Made of 40% Grenache Noir, 30% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre, it has an attractive ruby hue of medium depth. A nose of fresh scrubland with a hint of dates, with clear finesse and elegance. Steadily gains in power over time, with tannins that reflect its cellaring potential. Grapes are hand-picked, conveyed in crates, and sorted on tables.
Chateau Musar: The one, the only!
Musar Blanc – my new favorite! Picture this: sitting by a fire, wine glass in hand, chewy caramel, honey and date on the palate. This wine can be aged up to 40 years! It is a late harvest with indigenous Lebanese grapes, Obiedi and Merwah. Serve cool but not cold. Give it a few minutes in the glass to oxygenate and the flavors will change. The more time it has, the sweeter it gets. Complex like a red, it is excellent with foie gras & hard cheese.
